Oud fragrances
Most fragrances sold as oud contain no agarwood. That is not a scandal — it is economics. Here is how to choose an oud perfume, and where one Swiss house fits in.
What to look for
Natural or synthetic oud
Synthetic oud is an accord — aroma molecules arranged to read as agarwood. It is stable, repeatable, affordable, and does not vary between batches. Those are real advantages, and most of the category uses it. Real agarwood is what an Aquilaria tree produces when it is wounded — resin laid down as defence, over decades. The difference shows in hours three to six: an accord stays where it started, real agarwood shifts and keeps going. Ask whether the house names its oud source at all.
Concentration
Eau de Parfum is the standard in niche oud — typically 15 to 20 percent fragrance oil in alcohol. Extrait de Parfum sits higher, at 20 to 40 percent. The number should be on the bottle or the product page. More oil means more density — it changes how the fragrance sits: an extrait tends to stay closer to the skin and last longer, where an EDP projects further for a shorter time.
Origin of the oud
Oud from different regions and distillations smells different. A named origin, down to the province, is a sign that the house knows what it is working with. "Oud" alone on a label tells you nothing about where it came from.
Maturation
After a fragrance is composed, the alcohol reacts with organic acids to form esters — molecules that smell rounder and softer than what they came from. Resting stock for months ties up capital. This is the one criterion almost no one talks about — which is why it is worth asking. The information is rarely on the bottle.
Longevity
How long a fragrance lasts depends on concentration, on the materials and on skin. A stated number of hours is only useful if the house commits to one. Test on skin, not on paper, and judge after several hours, not in the first ten minutes.
Where M'OUD stands
M'OUD Switzerland answers each of the five questions on the product page: Extrait de Parfum at 30 to 35 percent, six months of maturation for Oud Amal, composed and filled in Switzerland, Oud Amal numbered, with a stated longevity for every fragrance.
That is not a claim about being better. It is a statement about what the house is for — and where it sits in a category where synthetic oud is the norm.
Oriental Oud · Amber
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum 35%
Longevity: 18–24 h
Notes: Saffron · Nutmeg · Frankincense · Leather · Sandalwood · Natural Oud from Thailand · Amber · Vanilla · Musk · Patchouli
Oud: Natural oud from Thailand
Edition: Numbered, limited to 1,000 bottles
Price: CHF 420 · 100 ml
Woody · Animalic · Leathery
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum 30%
Longevity: 12–24 h
Notes: Mango · Cistus Labdanum · Saffron · Black Pepper · Davana · Cashmere Wood · Caramel · Violet · Rose · Cabreuva · Patchouli · Musk · Amber · Oud · Vanilla
Price: CHF 360 · 100 ml
Oriental · Ambery · Woody
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum 30%
Longevity: 12–24 h
Notes: Tea · Cardamom · Bergamot · Apricot · Lemon · Cinnamon Bark · Cashmere Wood · Cedarwood · Sandalwood · Vetiver · Vanilla · Cistus Labdanum · Amber · Musk · Patchouli · Benzoin Sumatra · Tonka Bean · Oud
Price: CHF 320 · 100 ml
Floral · White Flowers · Balsamic
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum 30%
Longevity: 12–24 h
Notes: Solar Notes · Cherry Blossom · Bergamot · Peach · Pink Peppercorn · Almond Blossom · Magnolia · Wood · Heliotrope · Sandalwood · Ylang-Ylang · Orange Blossom · Musk · Benzoin Siam · Vanilla · Tuberose · Jasmine · Oud
Price: CHF 320 · 100 ml
None of this settles on paper. Three extraits, 2 ml each, and the full CHF 40 comes off your first bottle.
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